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Journal Excerpts: From my trip to Fairbanks, Alaska and on to Old Crow, Canada, a native village in the Arctic Circle 6/27/01. I was feeling full from the Chinese dinner/lunch we had after the museum when Bill mentioned having salmon for dinner. I tried to push it out of my mind. We ran more general errands and then wound up at the house by dinnertime. Bill's neighbor, "Doc," paid him a visit and he was bearing salmon he had caught the day before. Doc's name is actually George Superdock, and his wife's name is - yes - Sammi Superdock. Doc is a large grizzly Adams-looking character, with a cigarette in his mouth, dirty blue t-shirt and a bag with a salmon. He's also Bill's landlord. He seemed like a really nice guy. Bill seems pleased to have him for a landlord and neighbor. Bill put the fresh salmon in the freezer and took out some salmon from his fridge. "how about some salmon sandwiches?" he asked in his native accent. I know its really weird to seafood lovers that I'd move to Seattle and in 2 years never eat salmon. But I've always retained this aural memory of Grandma Nell making salmon patties in her kitchen when I was about 4 years old. The sound the patties made in her hand was disgusting and I've cataloged it for years. But here I am in Alaska and a native Indian wants to serve me salmon so of course I said yes. He made salmon salad - much like tuna salad-made with mayo, relish, salt, pepper. It actually tasted like tuna salad. I couldn't believe it. It was OK. I survived. [Note: I'm now a salmon eater. ALM 2003]. I'm actually dreading Old Crow now a little. This is entirely because I might not have water where I'm staying. I get one room in a trailer on Alan Benjamin's land and Bill gets the other. Bill mentioned carrying water to the trailer. OK - not completely horrible. But then I thought of the toilet. And the mosquitoes. He said there might be a "honey pot" (piss pot). I think I'll die! The only consoling comment Bill made was that "someone else might decide to take you in." I can only hope! I know I signed up for this adventure. And I know I could have stayed in a nice B&B with cable and breakfast and water. But I opted to save the money (around $400). What do you think is more important? Maybe I don't know it yet but the adventure might be the real prize. I hope so. We're off to Dawson tomorrow. One more day of civilization. Woohoo! 6/29/01 ...The flight was good and the airplane was full of Gwich'in. I was beginning to realize that I had been discussed much in Old Crow. Willie Horton from the night before knew of me. A guy in the airport was asking Bill if I was the fiddler from Seattle. Word travels fast with these people. They all know I fiddle and all know I found Old Crow on the Internet. As the plane approached Old Crow, a Gwich'in turned back and said to his friends, "We're in Gwich'in country," with a big smile on his face. His friends nodded and chuckled in agreement. I was completely recognizing the Arctic tundra landscape which I had seen online and in books. I imagined herds of the caribou running there. I could have been right too. It looked just like the pictures. As the plane descended in to Old Crow I was so in awe of it. It was just like all the pictures - but REAL. 3D, in lots of bright colors. I saw the Porcupine River and OC sitting on its North side. I recognized the large white building, what I now know to be the skating rink. ...Let me tell you about the sun. Its huge, its really close to you and its intense. The temperature was probably around 80-85. It can change quickly though. But the sun at that angle glows in a way you don't see in the US. Everything looks kind of overexposed at times. My face is sunburned. On the tour we bumped into some elders. When an elder wants to talk to you you have to listen as long as it takes. They hold a very high status. Incidentally they're all cute. 6/30 ...The day was much cooler than the day before and the mosquito problem was much improved. The day felt like 55 degrees. I was warned to dress warmly for the river so I wore a sweat shirt and wore a hooded jacket. On the way into the beach, my feet got stuck in the mud. They sank straight down up to my calves. I was totally stuck. They had to dig me out. Paul was kind enough to scrape the thick black sludge off my shoes with his hands. I left my shoes out to dry on the boat. The trip down the Porcupine river was beautiful. The river was wide and calm. The pine trees aren't triangular as I'm used to. Rather, they're more like a swab shape. It was hard imagining the river being frozen in winter. During that time the locals will use the ski-doo to traverse it. Its like a sled with a motor. The more traditional folks mush. There's a musher in Old Crow, Stanley Njootli, who has run professionally. The person we were visiting was a man named Georgie Moses. He has a remote hunting camp along the river. As we approached his camp we saw several fishing nets. The camp is up a tiny trail and incredibly, beautifully rustic. A small cabin and an outhouse, a canvas and wood tent for a kitchen. A "guest tent' and a smoke house. Also a team of 12 dogs chained to scattered posts. Georgie was still asleep so me, Paul, and Steven (he's the boat owner) and his son went to check the nets. There was a pike in one net and a white fish up river in the other net. You have to pick the fish up by the eyeballs because they can bite. We brought the fish back and I took lots of pictures. Eventually Georgie woke up and made some coffee on his outside grill. He told stories about mushing up and down the river. He looks to be about my age, but really worn. He was missing some teeth and his black hair was to his collar. He had a cap on. Sweatpants and t-shirt. He was rugged in appearance. Because of his lifestyle he's perfectly fit and muscular -- there was an attractive ruggedness about this man who could hunt and provide without worry about modern concerns. Its very basic human instinct. We had to get back in time for the dance. This dance was supposed to be a much bigger one [than last night]. 7/3/01 ...I cashed my check and went over to Hanna Netro's. She was asleep but waved me to come in. What a dear lady. These elders love to tell stories. She told me how you tan caribou leather. You scrape off the flesh side, then you scrape off the fur side. Then you wash it and hang it out. When it turns tan you wash it again and you dry it. This is repeated till the skin is really soft. She told me how she does bead work. Just a little at a time. She strings each color of beads. Then on the felt is a pattern. The strings of beads are then sewn (each bead is tacked on ) until the string is secure. It takes a very long time, but, she says it gives her something to do. She said she's alone, doesn't have friends, her family is all gone. But she does have Old Crow, which is an extended family. She talked about her late husband, her children, and her step parents. Both of her parents died when she was young. We talked about modern appliances vs. the old way. She likes her appliances, however I think it overwhelmed her at first. Took some getting used to. We had a good visit and I was sad to leave, but if I wanted dinner I had 10 minutes till the store closed (6pm). The restaurant was already closed. The slippers that I bought from Hanna are beautiful. Caribou skin, with pink traditional Gwich'in style flowers. The cuff is Arctic rabbit. They smell like animal and you can feel the love and time put in to them when you hold them. |